The New Champion

This weekend just gone saw my shire of Dun in Mara host the Champions of Lough Devnaree event, and as, at the time, current A&S champion, the A&S competition to decide my successor.

The competition format I decided on drew from the Drachenwald Kingdom artisan competition. I invited the artisans of the isle to enter as many entries they wanted in as many categories as they liked, and the winner of each category would receive a prize, with the person with the best average score overall becoming the new A&S champion.

There was such a wonderful response! I had enquires about entries and format, but unfortunately, some people ran out of time. But there were a total of twelve entries covering six of the categories! And the quality of these entries were wonderfully high, and their scope varied. I had many wonderful judges to help me review the items, and it was a close run thing; I would not have been able to call the winner before the numbers were totted up. I felt almost more nervous than last year, when I was competing, but I was delighted to name Lady Órlaith as my successor with her many wonderful entries, and I look forward to seeing what competition she comes up with next year.

Raglan XI review

I had meant to post another prep update before I left, but after I was laid low by a viral infection and and another matter of delicate nature which persisted throughout the holiday, I counted myself lucky to have gotten almost everything done.... and I still managed to leave a few non-essentials behind. 

My Raglan this year was a primarily A&S one, as my bow ended up coming along just for the road trip. As well as being the A&S co-ordinator, I taught two classes - a two part Italian flat cap class and a Viking Wire weaving class, and took as many classes as I was able. But the A&S didn't start there!

Because, really, who can endure a three hour boat trip without something to work on? The something for me was the start of a pair of red woollen socks, made to a just post period pattern. 



 
I travelled this year via Holyhead, and made a trip into Abakhan for their fabric bargains. Alas, it was not a good season for linen or wool, but I picked up a piece of printed knit and some satin back dupion, which are currently whispering to me of Edwardian and Victorian visions.The printed knit is a much richer, darker emerald than the picture shows, it's just quite difficult to get it to show up properly. 






The first full day of Raglan saw my hat class, of which I had two very dedicated students... even if one kept trying to put the cut fabric on his head and declare the job a good one. 





Thought I didn't attend any classes on the Sunday, that does not mean I was idle! Having left my earrings in my tent, laziness dictated that I make new ones rather than fetch the ones left behind. These are based on earrings in a portrait I've been unable to find since, but I'll post the link when I find it. Unfortunately, the ribbons from one earring fell apart by the end of the days wear, so when I revisit this style it'll have to be with some sort of glue to keep the ribbon knots in place, while also keeping the ribbons from sliding down the bar of the earring.

The first class I attended was Short Mead in Two Parts by Asbiorn inn Eyverski, with the product of the class being drunk at the Raglan farewell on Sunday night. Quite tasty it was too. I think the rose petals did come through a little, though maybe that was my imagination; my taste buds are not that well refined on non-chocolately substances.  

On Monday I also snuck in a brief, private lesson in sprang, something I've wanted to learn for quite some time. Having purchased a frame from Jahanarabanu Vivana, she offered me yarn and instructions and I set to work. In hindsight, I really should have taken a picture while it was still on the frame. But this way I get to show you a section of sprang without multiple design features. 

 
Tuesday's class was Njalbinding in the Roman style by Mistress Rogned Steingrimovna. My brain quickly interpreted this as so similar to a detached buttonhole stitch, one of my favourite embroidery stitches, that I found myself tearing away at it and am now contemplating making a pair of socks for an upcoming event. 

 


Wednesday's class was Crewelwork Embroidery 101, taught by Baronessa Lucrezia-Isabella di Freccia. I surprised myself with how much I enjoyed this one. I often find it hard to get embroidery projects to click, but I had the sampler of this done in only two days. I missed the Baronessa's gold-work class, but I purchased a kit from her later in the week to enjoy at home. 

 

Thursday was another quiet day, which allowed me to finish my personalisation of the cushion I'd been gifted with for my savonarola. I used a couple of different colours of cheap cotton yarn, as this was my first attempt at tassels, and I'm quite pleased with how they turned out... until someone pointed out that the lion head mouths on the arms are drilled through, so I really should make another two to hang there...     

Friday morning I gave my Viking Wire Weaving lesson to a full class, and managed to miss Catherine Weaver's tablet-weaving class yet again. 







However, to top off a week of A&S, I found myself interrupted at the MOAS meeting, by a summons from her highness. Court was begun before I was dismissed so I waited, confused, until I was summoned by the herald to receive my Order of the Silver Marlet, the principality A&S award. The calligraphy and illumination were done by Órlaith, the images based on a 16th century Venetian panegyric - but I shall leave it to Órlaith to give you all the detail, while I admire the token, the bell, already sewn into place on my saccoccia.

Saturday was taken up in its entirety by the Coronet Tourney, meetings, more meetings, and an almost missed Investiture Court, as the heat became a little too much for me. But I returned to the court in time to see the granting of the premier Order of Luna to a very, very deserving lady, and to take my oath to the new Prince and Princess as an officer of Insulae Draconis.

There were other random bits of A&S during the week, though perhaps not period appropriate. A gift of fabric from the most wonderful of champions (which, given that she's now gifted me with this *and* poetry, means I really need to get into gear to make her a favour). A 19th century knitting pattern book which will have to come along to my next Irish Historical Costumers meet up for perusal. And my own little ceramic pot, one of which was gifted to all of the teachers at Raglan, and was my great honour to deliver them to each one. 

A&S Champion of Lough Devnaree

Continuing with posts of activities from last year, and one which really shouldn't wait much longer, is that of the A&S competition from the Champions of Lough Devnaree event. 

This was my first proper A&S competition entry at this event (a previous last minute entry of a re-created necklace with portrait inspiration does not proper documentation make), and the theme chosen by the previous winner, Lady Agnes des Illes, was "Paradise".

Initially, I wasn't quite sure where to start with this one, but I browsed Wikipedia a bit and eventually came across a reference to the land of Cockaigne, or Cloud Cuckoo Land as it is known in modern terms. Using this page and reference as my springboard, I found repeated reference to small honey cakes sold at fairs being the origin of the phrase. An A&S entry about research and baking? Sounds ideal for me!

I chose to make three types of cakes from period recipes; gingerbread from a 15th century recipe, a simple Lebkuchen recipe, not having the moulds for anything but a simple recipe, and a perhaps slightly less period Elizabethan almond cake recipe, because I just adore almonds.

Cakes made, I delivered them up for the competition and waited anxiously for the judges to judge, trying not to watch them all the while. I'm not sure I'm really able for the waiting. It's the anxiety that keeps me from entering in more competitions I'm sure.

Results weren't announced until feast was over, and it was difficult to eat on top of that many butterflies. My thanks to Lady Sela for enduring my steel grip as I waited for the winner to be announced.... and I won! I was so utterly delighted!

I asked Lady Agnes to go through the comments on my scoring afterwards, and I can see where I failed to take into consideration the strength of modern spices compared to what would have been used in period (except for the gingerbread. I think that may have been a personal taste thing, as it was perfect for me). And my referencing is a bit rusty. But both very workable-on things. 

Next year's CoLD is due to be held in early September, and I get to keep the staff of office and the title of A&S Champion of Lough Devnaree until then. I've restrained myself from carrying around the staff too much though, given how I almost knocked someone over in the first half hour of holding it... *ahem*

Drachenwald A&S Exchange

So, when I went to the leather working workshop, what was it I did on the Sunday? 

Well, last year I took part in the Drachenwald A&S exchange for the first time.The format is simple; you get a form to complete with details such as your society name and device (if any), period of interest, favourite colours, etc, all details to help your recipient decide what to craft for you. My recipient, Lady Mylla O'Reilly, a 16th century bourgeois Flemish woman, had an interest in sewing and a preference for an autumnal palate, so I decided to make up a sewing kit for her with items that could conceivably been made of a middle class woman's sewing box. I based my items on findings from the Thames River, reasoning that there would have been reasonably regular trade between England and the Netherlands, and it was likely they'd be using the same tools, without too much in the way of regional variations. 

 
To start I carved a simple apple wood awl, and made up some felt which would form the leaves for the planned pinbook, and as a place to keep all the hooks and eyes together.  


 
I've found that hooks and eyes abounded in the 16th century. From woodcuts which clearly show the presence of hook and eye closures, to the rusted findings from sunken ships, these seem to have been a common closure option. I made up these using 0.8mm brass wire, which were hammered to work hardened the wire. The hooks were hammered flat and folded into shape after. The pins I made were also made with brass wire, but this time using a slightly heavier gauge, 1mm thick. The coils I made separate to the pin shaft, and hammered them flat onto the pin when I was hardening the wire. The points were sharpened on a file, and the pin was sanded lightly with fine sandpaper. I had meant to try the period method of using ground pumice to sand the pins, but my tub of pumice chose just the right moment to go missing...

The pins were displayed in a pinbook with four leaves cut from felt, and an outer of leather which was painted with the recipients (newly approved) heraldry, and sealed with a beeswax-olive oil finish.

I made up a bakers dozen of embroidered buttons, using brown cotton embroidery thread over wooden beads, using a variation of a detached buttonhole stitch over eight spokes on the buttons.




 

But the pride of the work box was the leather components, as well as the pinbook, there was a simple (purchased) snips and snips case, and a pouch for a piece of beeswax, all stamped with the same simple pattern. And I also crafted a leather needle case. 

The case was formed by stitching wet leather around a piece of wood, with a rubber mallet being used to help flatten out the seams after sewing. The outer piece was sized and stamped before being sewn into place, which took up most of my Sunday at the workshop, and with the deadline fast approaching, had to be completed that day. When all the leather had finally dried out, for which I allowed about a week, it had shrunk and very much tightened around the wooden form that I'd used. It order to remove this, I screwed a screw into the wood, and using pliers and brute force, managed to pull the wood out. Now, annoyingly, this left the inner leather case a little loose, however when I put in the fingerloop woven cord for the case, this made the fit nice and snug again. The case and other leather components were then dyed with commercial dyes to give a uniform look and sealed with a likewise commercial dye so I could be sure the dye wouldn't bleed when the leathers were in use.

So with gift completed and put into a purchased woven basket with a piece of white linen to help keep everything secure, I posted it away and waited anxiously to see if it would be on the mark. And I'm very pleased to say it was, and my recipient was quite pleased with it.